Here is the second part of T&I resident make-up artist Keely’s write-up on permanent make-up technician Rachel Pitman. Rachel answers some of the most common questions associated with PMU. (read part one here)
What is permanent makeup?
It derives from tattooing, but the rotary machine I use is extremely lightweight and the application is quite different…it works very slowly and very gently, and I apply a topical anesthetic to alleviate any pain.
What’s the difference between PMU and traditional tattooing?
The pigments I use are produced specifically to mimic make-up and I don’t deposit the ink quite as deep into the dermis, which helps it to gradually fade over time. I’m doing a tattoo apprenticeship and I’m discovering that so many of the techniques and processes are completely different! The face is much more delicate and this really dictates the process. You have a lot more leeway with tattoos to get creative.
How long have you been working with PMU?
I trained with Nouveau Contour almost eight years ago and before that I studied Fine Art for five years, so it was a very different direction for me. But I really wanted to do something that utilised my creativity and my perfectionist tendencies!
What made you want to get into the industry?
I’ve always been obsessed with eyebrows – I had mine tattooed with permanent make-up back when I was at uni. But the technician made a real mess of it, I figured I could do a much better job myself.
What is the thing that people request most regarding permanent make-up?
Eyebrows! I remedy over plucked, lost, or weak brows on men and women. I often treat people with decent hair growth who want to perfect what they’ve got. But emulating hair strokes on clients who’ve lost their brows from chemotherapy or alopecia is really rewarding. It makes such a difference to their confidence to regain something they’ve lost like that.
What have you had done yourself?
Apart from my brows, I’ve got a beauty spot and I’ve tattooed the contour of my upper lip line – just along the cupid’s bow. It gives my lips extra volume and definition. Discreet and well planned permanent make-up is extremely effective!
How do you see the industry evolving?
I think it will evolve as the demand does. Brows are at the forefront right now, so a lot of focus has shifted to creating authentic hair-strokes. Maybe in a few years eyeliner will take precedence and everyone will be obsessed with creating super elegant, feline eyes.
Is there trends with permanent make-up like there are with the make-up industry?
I’m mindful not to overstep the boundaries… for example I’ll create a really thick brow if 1. It genuinely suits my customer and 2. They have a lot of existing hair to ensure it looks natural. But generally, discretion is the aim, and most beauty trends aren’t in keeping with that… so it’s not too much of an issue.
Do you find that you are fixing a lot of botched jobs?
Yes! I correct a lot of work from “cowboy” technicians. These techs are charging low prices cbeause they’re poorly trained, using cheap equipment, and quite possibly unlicensed. Like tattooing, the industry is unregulated, and people need to thoroughly research their practitioner.
Rachel can be contacted via her website: rachel-pitman.com or via Facebook and her Instagram @permanent_makeup_london. Her tattoo apprentice page is @p_i_t_m_a_n