Tattoo Street Style by Alice Snape

Our editor Alice Snape’s Tattoo Street Style book came out last year. It features more than 400 original portraits in cities from London and Brighton to LA and NYC, and a directory of studios in each city, a guide to tattoo styles and a personal foreword from tattoo artist Cally-Jo. Here’s a peek inside, and the reasons why Alice wrote the book.

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Derryth Ridge, spotted in Brighton. Photo by Heather Shuker

I’ve always been fascinated by people and enjoyed glimpsing them from afar, and spying what they’re up to. When I travel to a new city, my favourite thing to do is find a little café and sit sipping a cup of coffee, watching the world go by. I love looking what someone has chosen to wear or their hair colour, wondering why I might be drawn to that person’s particular style, the way they walk or hold themselves. I make up little stories about them in my mind – perhaps they are on their way to a meeting, to call on a friend, to hang out at the park or to go to work? This fascination is why I fell in love with street style photography. I love that it captures a moment, a city, a person at that exact point in time. Street-style photos tell a story – tiny but complete – of a place and the people in it.

Manni Kalsi, spotted in London. Photo by Heather Shuker
Manni Kalsi, spotted in London.
Photo by Heather Shuker

What I have loved about writing this book is not only capturing a sense of each city, but working with different photographers in each location, whom we briefed to capture their city through their own lens. The result doesn’t just provide a snapshot, it communicates a particular vision, with each photographer contributing his or her own unique style and interpretation of what ‘street style’ looks like.

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Simone Thompson, spotted in New York. Photo by Elena Mudd

Alongside the imagery, I have loved delving further into what motivates each of those people and gathering snippets of their life stories. This volume of Tattoo Street Style allows me to introduce you to some prominent figures in the tattoo world, such as Wendy Pham in Berlin and Angelique Houtkamp in Amsterdam. But we’ve also spoken with random inhabitants of the eight cities we have featured – people I never would have discovered if I hadn’t written this book. In my everyday life, I often wish I could stop someone in the street and find out more about them – this book has given me the chance to do just that. In London, businesswoman Sian Rusu shared that her tattoos make her feel “different – and difference is what makes us unique”. In contrast, Berlin’s stylist Flora Amelie talks honestly about sometimes questioning her decision to become heavily tattooed, a revelation you wouldn’t expect from someone who portrays such confidence.

Flora Amalie Pedersen spotted in Berlin. Photo by Lisa Jane
Flora Amalie Pedersen spotted in Berlin.
Photo by Lisa Jane

It has been a joy to curate this compendium of tattoos and fashion in eight of my favourite places around the world, cities I have lived in, loved spending time in and dream of returning to. I love that it will immortalise this period in time. I love that one day, someone will look at it as a historical document, in the way that I have looked at old photos of tattooed women from the 1940s. What feels so thoughtfully current now as you flick through the pages will one day be but a memory of our own moment in time.

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Cally-Jo, spotted in Brighton. Photo by Heather Shuker

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In all good bookshops and available to order online here

Interview with Kajsa Franzén

Tattoo artist Kajsa Franzén is based in Ubud, Bali and in Gothenburg, Sweden. Having sold her female only studio, Red Rose Tattoo, in 2017, Kajsa moved abroad to seek new adventures, she’s been working ‘on the road’ ever since. We caught up with Kajsa to chat all things tattooing and what it mans to be a woman in the industry. She also asks the question – are you a real artist or an Instagram artist?

kajsa1How long have you been tattooing? 12 years of tattooing. And two years apprenticeship – so 14 years in this business!

What made you want to become a tattooist? I was curious how I could make a living out of something where I could be creative every day! When I started in 2006, there were not many female tattoo artists at all, so I wasn’t too sure if it would be possible. I didn’t know anything about the business but as I figured it out I knew I wanted to be a part of it and actually be a part of a big change for the female artists movement! I was lucky to meet my teacher as he just moved from New York` to my hometown. He rose to the challenge of teaching me when I had zero experience.

There were a lot of male artists that tried to put me down and make me stop learning they would say that I was just a groupie. So I thought ‘fuck them, I will prove them wrong. 

Do you have a background in art? No, I’m self thought but I come from a very artistic and creative family filled with artists, painters, art teachers, sculptors. All of whom inspired me to become something I wanted to be. 

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How would you describe your style? I think my style is hard to describe, because it varies, I don’t only work in one style. But its foundation is in old school traditional, with a fusion of new bold and bright colours, shapes and details. Sometimes it is inspired by geometric and mehdi patterns and sometimes it’s infused with neo-trad style.

Some tattoo magazines have described my style as ‘psychedelic new old school’ which I kind of like! 

What inspires or influences your work?I probably get most of my inspiration from nature, animals and the universe. I meditate a lot and do yoga, so my inspiration comes from inside myself, maybe the chakras. And my colour pattern is choosen from the colours I see when I meditate or during healing as well as from nature. Of course I get inspired by other tattoo artists and art, but that is part of what we do.

Are there any artists that you admire?A lot. I couldn’t name just one, but I mainly admire hard working artists that draw their own designs. Nowadays there are so many toys that make tattooing so easy, too easy I think. Everyone can be a super star without any effort really but the hard working artists that draw with a pen and paper would survive even without the internet and a printer.

Living in Indonesia and Bali, I have also gotten to know some of the traditional hand tapping artists that use nothing but a needle on a stick, drawing directly onto the skin. I admire that style of raw tattooing.

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What do you like to tattoo and what would you like to do more of? I think I am a ‘go with the flow’ kind of custom artist. My clients never get to see their design until I meet them on the tattoo day, unless they have very specific requests. So I usually go with the flow and design upon their idea, choose the colours depending on my mood and how I and the client feel that day.

It usually stays very colourful. I love colours and contrasts, patterns and details. I think I would love to do more spiritual and occult, wicca, pagan, sourcery, nature and creature designs. Could be small symbols, or big pieces. I love to tattoo thighs! 

How would you describe your experience as a female in the tattoo industry?I think I don’t have the best experience, but it never stopped me doing what I love. I also have tons of good experiences too! 

Starting in 2006, there weren’t many female artists at all in my town, the second biggest city in the country, only had 4 or 5 female tattoo artists amongst maybe 80 males. I got to know the female tattooers and they all said the same thing and warned me to be on my guard. Because to be a girl in this buisness, you have to sharpen your elbows, have a lot of hard skin and work 10 times harder than a dude.

I was told many times that I was not good enough, people tried to bully me and fool me to make me look bad or to put me down. There was one time when my teacher was sick and I was alone in the shop with this other tattoo artist, he was there to supervise me while I had a client. While I was setting up my station, he came over and recommended that I use another black lining ink for lines, and said this was the best ink he ever tried. I trusted him so I used it on my poor client, tattooing black stars on her chest. Little did I know, the lines spread very quickly and I panicked – it was a nightmare.

He would also steal clients infront of me when no one else in the shop to hear us. Telling the clients I was shit, so they better book in with him instead. I have had male artist, that I know, commenting on my Facebook posts, that I suck and I shouldn’t continue what I am doing.

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Did these experiences lead you to open a female-only shop? I think that was the reason I opened Red Rose Tattoo, with only female artists in 201 – one of the first female artist shops in Sweden. I think there was only one before mine, up in the north parts of Sweden. Called ‘Man’s Ruin Tattoo’ such a brilliant name! 

I wanted to keep a space free from the things I experienced. I wanted to have a space where there were no sex jokes or male artists seducing the female clients. I wanted to have a cosier shop, no pee on the toilet seat, not beeing accused of having my period if they thought I was being grumpy.

But the problem is not only with male artists, I learned that after a few years of running my shop. I have also been backstabbed by my own female shop collegues a couple of times. I think mostly from jealousy and low self esteem. Maybe a bit of mental illness and perhaps drug related problems, but definitely a lack of manners, humbleness and respect to others.

But I do have a lot of tattoo business friends who have lovely attitudes to each other, both male and female, always treating each other with respect. We share our thoughts and techniques, we talk about machines, what brand of needles we use, we help eachother, without any ulterior motive. Just pure friendship and love.

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What do you think of the tattoo industry as a whole?Both good and bad. As with most things in life. It is getting a little bit out of control. The ‘industry’ is growing too fast. Too many artists, too many new inks, needles, products brands and too many fake people. I think it is too easy, there’s too much focus on social media and how many followers you have and how you look. I see a lot of artists hungry for attention so they also use their tattoo platform to post modelling pictures of themselves. They care if you are beeing sponsored or not, if you are cool enough to talk to or to follow on social media. It has become a game. A mad game.One good friend of mine said recently ‘we either have to play the game by the new rules or stay out of the game’.

Do you think social media has changed he tattoo world? There are some truly amazing hard working and honest artists around the world! But there are also a lot of artists using modern tools to edit mistakes to make flawless tattoos, people buying followers, hiring someone to answer your emails and calls because they are beeing lazy or too busy playing the social media game. Now, the whole tattoo industry is worshipping social media.

Clients check how many followers the artist has rather than check if they can actually do a straight line. You wouldn’t know anyway because of all the filters and photoshopped pictures.The hype over ‘fine line’ tattoos where no one really cares if it looks good when it heals. It is just too much to be honest. I love the old fashion business, keeping it real.

That is why I love to see healed work, no filter, just real work, by real artists. I think that is the proof of what you actually are. Are you a tattoo artist or an Instagram artist? When I started there were no Facebook or Instagram. But the industry has adapted, that’s positive all the new tools like Instagram have helped artists a lot, it’s a good way to get clients, to promote and share your work. I think I get most of my new clients from Instagram.

The world now is more ‘instant’, everything should happen fast. You can make your own advertising within a few minutes. You don’t have to wait one month until the next issue of the tattoo magazine comes out with your recent work in it.

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What advice would you give your younger self when you were starting out? Don’t trust people too easily, don’t let people take advantage of you, do your thing and keep developing yourself, and stay away from the drama. 

Are you doing any conventions or guestspots soon? Yes! Since I moved to Bali, I don’t have a studio anymore so I am more free to travel! When I’m at conventions I still use my name Red Rose Tattoo so look out for that.

I used to work in tattoo studios in Bali, but the standards and knowledge about hygiene were very low, and it can be very complicated and expensive to get a work permit. So I guest in friends’ shops and create my art and jewellery – it works out fine for me!

I usually go to my friend’s shop in Singapore Bada Bink Tattoo Firm next time I’ll go there will probably be in December or January. Sometimes I guest in my friend’s shop in Kuala Lumpur Malaysia at Wayang Kulit Tattoo, it is close to Bali. I enjoy working a few days or and then going back to my lazy and slow Bali life.

I still have many regular and faithful clients in Sweden, so I am very lucky to manage this lifestyle because of them! I travel 2 or 3 months every year to visit my family and friends in Sweden. And when I am in Sweden, I work in my former teacher’s shop in Gothenburg 5 Points Tattoo. I am also attending some conventions around Europe each right now I am preparing for the Icelandic Tattoo Expo.

We love kewpies

Rose O_Neill 1907Rose O’Neill first illustrated Kewpie dolls to be featured in the Ladies’ Home Journal, and they swiftly became extremely popular. Born in Germany, their name derived from the word “Cupid”, for the Roman God of beauty.

Shortly after Rose was 19, she moved to New York city alone with only 60 drawings. Within three months, she had sold them all. She was shocked by their popularity. She began illustrating for children’s books and was highly successful, appearing in many popular publications including Harper’s Bazaar and Good Housekeeping. She drew over 700 cartoons for the humour magazine, Puck, which was a predominantly male-centric title at the time.

Her career was unparalleled and she truly demonstrated the traits of a strong woman. During her success, she sent her earnings home to her father, who converted their two-bedroom cabin in Missouri into a 14-room mansion. Rose also bought homes in New York, Connecticut and the Italian Isle of Capri. In a time where women could not even vote, she was truly supporting her family and allowing them to live a life they were not previously accustomed to.

Kewpie Postcard

Rose took inspiration for her work from many different areas of her life. Her Kewpie dolls came to her in a dream. Rose O’Neill had a dream of small little cherub-like elves jumping on her bed, one night in 1909. When she woke, she hurried to her drawing desk and sketched the first Kewpie. From there, her love of the small Kewpie never faltered.

Tattoo by Kim Anh-Nguyen
Tattoo by Kim-Anh 

Kewpies took their doll form in 1913, manufactured in Germany, designed by Joseph Dallas. They were five inches tall, with jointed arms, painted eyes and a distinctive moulded face. They became highly collectable, and in 1939 a Kewpie doll was entered into a time capsule in New York’s World Fair. Early dolls now raise thousands of dollars, and are highly collectable. But they were not only captured in celluloid and plastic; Kewpies were immortalised in colouring books, stationery, cups, plates and poems. More recently, they have been commonly eternalised in tattoos. Many artists now tattoo the dolls in many different outfits and styles, but always keeping to the distinct Kewpie characteristics Rose O’Neill designed.

Tattoo by Lauren Winzer
Tattoo by Lauren Winzer

Kewpies were popular in tattoo flash around the time of their conception, but faded out by the 1950s, being seen as old-fashioned. Today, they are almost as famous in tattoo flash as other bold traditional designs, such as the pin-up girl. Many artists are known for their amazing renditions of these cherub-like children, such as Kim-Anh Nguyen, Lauren Winzer and the late tattoo legend Mike Malone.

Kewpie necklace, by Bete Noire.

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Empowering mastectomy tattoo by Lianne Moule

Back in August, we spotted this absolutely stunning mastectomy tattoo by Lianne Moule, who works at Immortal Ink in Chelmsford, after she shared it on Instagram. So we got in touch with Lianne to find out more about the process, we’re sharing the story here to mark Breast Cancer Awareness Month.

“Around four years ago, Liz was diagnosed with a rare form of cancer: sarcoma. The type and size of the cancer dictated that Liz’s only real option was a mastectomy with delayed reconstruction. The process must have taken a huge amount of strength and courage but I’m so grateful she allowed me to be a small part of her inspiring journey.

“Having never had a tattoo in her life, I am awe-inspired that she found me to request a mastectomy cover-up. Liz emailed the studio and told us about her situation and what she wanted to do. When I met Liz for her first consultation, she was very nervous. But she bravely told me her story. When she was diagnosed and told she would lose her breast, she was overrun by emotions. She even said to the consultant that she would rather die than lose her breast. She was aware that even though it seemed a dramatic reaction, her emotions were all over the place and she genuinely felt that. All of a sudden, she was aware of the fact that she felt her breasts gave her femininity, she questioned whether or not she would be able to love her body afterwards.

“Liz told me that throughout every stage of her diagnosis, surgery and aftercare, she was given so much support by the different departments – every team would explain what would be happening to her body and what the options were for her in the future. She decided to go ahead with a nipple graft onto the reconstructed breast, but at this point in the surgeries, she still didn’t know what she wanted to do with her body.

“When Liz was looking at the option of getting tattooed nipples, she came across some pictures of some flowers over mastectomy scars. Liz told me many times that she would never have had a tattoo if it hadn’t been for this journey she has been through. When Liz’s breast was taken away, it was replaced with what she calls ‘a lump of flesh’ – she said it never felt like her breast. With these feelings, Liz said she wanted to make it ‘her own’. Having a beautiful picture on it would make it finally hers, after having many operations without choice, she could finally make a decision to do what she wanted with it.

“Every time I tattoo a breast cancer survivor, it is always about reclaiming their body. It’s the decision that they get to finally make about their own body, to get closure of their experience. Having their bodies cut and poked and prodded and tested without really having a choice, it’s empowering to finally make a decision.

“Liz’s tattoo is one of my favourite pieces of artwork, she looks beautiful and I really hope she feels it. It’s detailed and colourful and I forever hope it gives her confidence.”

Research shows that one in seven women in the UK will develop breast cancer at some stage in their lifetime. October marks Breast Cancer Awareness Month. It is so so important to check your breasts (if you need help with this head to coppafeel.org).